How to repair damaged hair: here are our tips
Today we talk about brittle and dry hair. This is a very common and frequent problem in all age groups and the longer the hair, the greater the damage detectable by the distal portion of the stem, which are of a proportional gravity to the chemical and physical insults to which the hair is been subjected. Overall, the damaged hair appears dull, because it has lost its natural shine, brittle and dry to the touch. Hair often breaks and tends to lengthen with difficulty.
Dry brittle hair: pathogenesis
The first alterations that the stem undergoes are borne by the cuticle, whose cells rise from the stem, and then detach themselves, exposing the underlying bark completely. The disappearance of the cuticle causes an increase in porosity of the stem and, consequently, a greater sensitivity to humidity and static electricity. In the areas of damaged bark there is a partial destruction of the protein molecules, with the exposure of negatively charged amino acid radicals. Over time, the bark undergoes fissures which cause it to progressively weaken until it breaks.
Damaged hair: possible causes
1) Mechanical: excessive use of the brush or comb can cause alterations to the cuticle, tricoptilosis, triceps nodose and rupture of the stem. These damages are frequent with the use of handmade wooden and metal combs, which present roughness that produce friction on the hair. The best combs are made of plastic, with wide teeth, which bend when they meet a knot. Caucasian people should not comb or brush their hair when wet, as the elasticity and distensibility of the wet stem also make it easier to reach the breaking point. Even some hairstyles can be responsible for alopecia due to excessive and prolonged traction. The extensions cause fractures and damage the hair they are attached to.
2) Thermal: heat can denature the hair cuticle proteins, damaging it and interrupting its continuity. Heat damage results from the use of electrical tools such as straighteners, curling irons, hair dryers used at high temperatures or from hot curlers on damp hair.
3) Environmental: these include sea or swimming pool water, wind, pollution, sun. Exposure to UV radiation greatly damages the stem, favoring the photo-oxidative breakdown of the cysteine bridges with the formation of free radicals in the protein matrix. The damage is greater if the hair gets wet after photo-exposure. Hair subjected to bleaching is also very easily damaged, while dyes can have a photoprotective effect. Another harmful effect of photo-exposure is the lightening of the dyes, which is greater if the hair is washed or wet after exposure. In sequential order we observe loss of the cuticle and subsequent separation of the microfibrils of the cortex with loss of melanin: the effects are similar to those found after discoloration. Basically there is a reduction in the protein content of the stem with degradation of the bark and alteration of the mechanical properties of the hair, which becomes less resistant to traction and develops gnarled triceps and other signs of fragility.
4) Chemicals: dyeing / bleaching, permanent. A permanent performed with incorrect method or the execution of a permanent on hair already damaged by other treatments can cause breakage of the stem and, exceptionally, of alopecia. Sodium hydroxide products are more caustic than ammonium thioglycolate based products and alkaline compounds are more frequently the cause of side effects. The irritative phenomena are more frequent during the counter-permanent, due to the high alkalinity of the products used.
Natural remedies to strengthen hair: our tips
On hair to be strengthened and restored, Erboristeria Como recommends a 100% vegetable Italian treatment, certified and professional among these:
- strengthening pack: the Phitofilos Strengthening Pack is a mixture of cereals and herbs powders, specific for the healthy and strengthening treatment of the hair. The composition provides a synergy of powders such as: millet, nasturtium, horsetail, alfalfa, birch, fenugreek and marshmallow.
Being rich in mineral salts, especially silicon (silicic acid) as well as magnesium and iron, sulfur amino acids (cystine and methionine) and mucilage, the Strengthening Pack helps maintain the well-being of the keratin structures (hair and nails) and offer them the same strength , vitality and tone. Only on particularly porous hair, very light or recently oxygenated, in some sporadic cases it could release a half-tone of darkening of the starting nuance. To use it, mix the necessary quantity of powder with hot water, until a not too thick batter is obtained; let stand 6-12 hours for a correct hydration phase. Then apply to lightly cleansed and slightly damp hair, wrap with food film or aluminum foil and leave on for 30 to 45 minutes. After the scheduled time, rinse and proceed with normal drying.
- emollient compress: it is a mixture of powders with strong protective, moisturizing and illuminating properties for the hair. The ingredients of the Phitofilos emollient compress (plantain, marshmallow, alfalfa, flax seeds, barley and oats) offer a product rich in amino acids, vitamins, mineral salts and mucilages capable of restructuring dry, brittle and fragile hair. It gives emollience, shine to silkiness. It is a neutral compress, so the basic color of the hair does not change. Only in case of particularly porous hair, very light or oxygenated for a short time, in some sporadic cases it could release a half-tone of darkening of the starting nuance. To use the Phitofilos emollient compress, just mix the necessary quantity of powder with hot water, until a not too thick batter is obtained; you can also add 3 tablespoons of yogurt (optional) for every 100 g of product. Apply to slightly cleansed and slightly damp hair. Bind them with plastic wrap or foil and leave on for 20-30 minutes. After the scheduled time, rinse and proceed with normal drying.
- neutral henna: it is finely pulverized oval cassia powder and allows you to enjoy the volumizing action without dyeing your hair. It represents an excellent restructuring agent that can be used monthly to promote hair strength and health. It is a valid treatment on unstressed or seborrheic surfaces, in order to give shine and body to the hair. It can be used on all types of hair without altering its base color (except on bleached or platinum, where in long poses it can bring a slight effect on yellow-green). Also useful for cutting the coloring power of other reflective mixtures. Using it is simple: mix the necessary amount of powder with hot water, until you get a not too thick batter, add (optional) vinegar, lemon juice or white yogurt until the result of a semolina of the consistency that does not run. Apply to slightly cleansed and slightly damp hair. Band with food foil or aluminum foil and leave on for 45 to 90 minutes. After the scheduled time, rinse and proceed with normal drying.
- amla: the finely pulverized Amla powder (Emblica Officinalis Fruit Powder), applied on hair and scalp, exerts a nourishing and restorative effect, optimally accompanying the healthy regrowth and good pigmentation of the hair. After the treatment, the hair will be extremely bright and silky to the touch, more easy to comb. Only on particularly porous hair, very light or recently oxygenated, in some sporadic cases it could release a half-tone of darkening of the starting nuance. Amla has no obvious color effects but, mixed with other dye powders (henna, indigofera, etc.), it makes them more homogeneous and creamy, in some cases also influencing their reflection. The high presence of vitamin C can bring on some particularly sensitive skin slight temporary redness. If you want more information on amla read here. To use it, you need to mix the required amount of powder with hot water, until a not too thick batter is obtained. Apply to slightly cleansed and slightly damp hair. Band with food foil or aluminum foil and leave on for 20 to 45 minutes. After the scheduled time, rinse and proceed with normal drying.
- fenugreek: fenugreek is given by the seeds of trigonella foenum graecum L., an annual herbaceous plant native to the south-east and western Asia. It is also called Alfalfa but should not be confused with Medicago sativa. Fenugreek, fienly pulverized, has always been used to counteract excessive hair loss, as well as to give silkiness and softness. In fact, fenugreek seeds contain saponins, mucilage, trigonelline, ﬂ avonoids, lipids, proteins, B vitamins, iron, manganese, silicon, calcium and phosphorus. In face masks it is traditionally used, also in synergy with Neem, as an excellent remedy for seborrheic scalps. To make a pack with fenugreek Phitofilos mix the necessary quantity of powder with hot water, until a not too thick batter is obtained and let it rest for 12-24 hours for a correct hydration. Apply to slightly cleansed and slightly damp hair. Bind them with plastic wrap or foil and leave on for 20 to 45 minutes. After the scheduled time, rinse and proceed with normal drying.
- don't you like making a compress and want something more immediate? the eco bio nourish serum for dry skin (or for seborrheic skin) is an eco bio cosmeceutical produced by a Tuscan company, Domus Olea, in collaboration with the University of Florence to promote the growth of a healthy, robust and well anchored hair: the phyto - keratins allow to repair the capillary ﬁber by reinforcing the damaged keratin bonds and sulfur bridges, fortifying and strengthening the vulnerable capillary ﬁ ber and in loss of material.
Recommended shampoos: eco bio nourishing shampoo "gold drops" by Phitofilos or the restructuring, cosmeceutical micellar shampoo eco bio of Domus olea, produced in collaboration with the University of Florence.
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED, THIS TEXT IS NOT REPRODUCIBLE WITHOUT EXPRESS AUTHORIZATION OF ERBORISTERIA COMO